Today I
went to visit the Louvre, which so large it’s really a complex of many museums
that happen to be in the same area. It was originally a palace that has
gradually been added to over centuries. In its current configuration the museum’s
exterior is a mix of old and new. See for yourself in the courtyard...
I’m
actually going back on Wednesday to see the things I didn’t have time for (my
brain basically shut down at one point from art and antiquities overload) and
to see the Costume Museum in the complex, which is closed on Mondays. There
were two main areas I wanted to see today. One is the Greek and Roman
galleries, which contains a lot of sculpture...
and it also
had an insane amount of tour groups which kind of made me freak out due to lack
of personal space... the visitors in those groups who liked to have their
photos taken while *touching* the sculptures did not help. I had to keep
reminding myself that I was on vacation and not at work, so I didn’t end up yelling
at a complete stranger (although my fellow conservators would understand- when
you are trained to above all else protect old objects in museums that instinct
is hard to turn off).
Anyway, my
favourite sculpture was this one, an Aphrodite from 440-400 BC...
The second
area I wanted to visit was the Ancient Egyptian galleries, which did not disappoint.
While it was all lovely, there was one piece in particular I was looking
for....
This,
tucked off in the corner, is the Zodiac Ceiling, originally from a temple in
the complex of buildings in Dendera. It is a map showing ancient astronomy and
is an incredibly rare because of its subject matter...
You would
never know it from the signage around the piece, but this is one of the objects
that the antiquities department in Egypt has demanded be returned to the
country. It was originally removed from the temple (which still stands) during
the Napoleonic ‘expeditions’ using the methods of early 19th century
archeology (being brute force and dynamite). It’s in remarkable shape given its
history and in its very sturdy frame, does not look like it would be easy to
return to Egypt even as a loan...
In the
afternoon I went to the decorative arts wing. In the same room as Napoleon’s
throne is this vase...
It’s an
example of Orientalism, which is a general style to describe European
interpretation of non-western art. This piece dates from 1804-1806 and is a
good example of how the spoils of Napoleon’s military conquests inspired pretty
trinkets for the ultra-rich to decorate their palaces. However, this is before
Europeans understood how to read hieroglyphics, so all the writing on it is
stylized and weirdly looks more like Arabic than anything else.
So in
short, the Louvre is a museum that bigger then you can ever imagine and filled
with more objects then is possible to see in one day. Looking forward to round
two.
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